THE WHOLE of Patagonia

Puerto Natales

Logistics base for Torres del Paine, on Última Esperanza Sound. The last full-service stop before the park.

For travellers, Puerto Natales today exists as the antechamber to Torres del Paine National Park. The town concentrates lodging, gear rental, transport to the park and the last reasonable chance of a good meal before several days of walking.

Its cooking combines seafood from Última Esperanza Sound with estancia lamb and supplies trucked in from Punta Arenas. Seasonality is sharper than in the regional capital: outside the austral summer, part of the offer shortens hours or closes.

It is also the natural place for the before-and-after logic: what to eat the night before entering the park, and what to eat on the way out.

Products

Magellanic king crab

The crustacean that defines the Magallanes table. Trapped in the cold waters of the strait and the channels.

Scallop

A sweet, firm-fleshed mollusc, served raw, grilled or barely seared.

Blue mussel

Southern Chilean mussel, the base of broths, rice dishes and preserves.

Patagonian lamb

Sheep from Magellanic estancias. The central product of Patagonian fire.

Calafate berry

Dark berry of the thorny Patagonian shrub. A regional emblem with a short season.

Rhubarb

An austral garden plant, acidic and cold-hardy. The base of regional desserts and preserves.

Morel

A spring mushroom of the austral forest. Very short window, hand-foraged, low volume.

Neighbouring territories

Torres del Paine

National park administered by CONAF. Multi-day circuits, access quotas and weather-dependent conditions.

Punta Arenas

Capital of the Magallanes Region and the air gateway to the far south. A port city on the Strait of Magellan.

Related reading

Seafood available by season

What depends on closed seasons, what depends on the sanitation programme, and what depends only on the weather.

The Magallanes morel that still has no name

In January, the head of INIA in Magallanes said there might be a species unique in the world here. Seven months on it has not been described, and the fungus is still exported nameless.