THE WHOLE of Patagonia

Torres del Paine

National park administered by CONAF. Multi-day circuits, access quotas and weather-dependent conditions.

Torres del Paine is a national park with regulated access. Quotas, fees, gate hours and trail status are set and published by CONAF, and change from season to season. THE WHOLE does not publish those figures as its own: it links to the official source and records the date consulted.

What does belong to this publication is the food decision around the park: what to eat the night before, what to carry, and what meal makes sense on the way out after three, five or eight days of sustained effort in cold and wind.

Inside the park the offer is limited and depends on refuges and hotels with their own regimes. Realistic planning happens from Puerto Natales.

Products

Patagonian lamb

Sheep from Magellanic estancias. The central product of Patagonian fire.

Calafate berry

Dark berry of the thorny Patagonian shrub. A regional emblem with a short season.

Morel

A spring mushroom of the austral forest. Very short window, hand-foraged, low volume.

Wild apple

Feral fruit from old settler orchards. Small, acidic, autumnal.

Neighbouring territories

Puerto Natales

Logistics base for Torres del Paine, on Última Esperanza Sound. The last full-service stop before the park.

Related reading

The Magallanes morel that still has no name

In January, the head of INIA in Magallanes said there might be a species unique in the world here. Seven months on it has not been described, and the fungus is still exported nameless.